As the golden sun rises over the still waters of the River Ganga, it highlights the ghats or the riverfront steps of Varanasi. The rays highlight the Subah-e-Banaras activities over the Assi Ghats. These events begin daily, before the crack of dawn. Nestled in the Ganges Valley in North India, the city of Benares seeps with a spiritual essence. It perpetuates the rustic structures that flank the river bank. A city perhaps as old as time itself, it resonates with eternal beauty.
Along with the religious activities, life carries on as usual. Pilgrims take dips in the holy waters to cleanse themselves of all sin. Monkeys scavenge for rice grains or fallen prasad, while a woman sweeps the steps. Varanasi’s culture stems from the religious importance of the River Ganga, considered to be the river of salvation. According to Hindu scriptures, Varanasi was founded by Lord Siva, and is also referred to as ‘Kashi’ or the City of Light, and is an eminent seat of spiritual enlightenment.
Varanasi was named after two Ganges tributaries, Varuna, and Assi, that form the city’s borders. It is a dynamic medley of tangible, and intangible heritage. Benares is rich in architecture, with hundreds of monuments sprinkled all over, dating back to different historical periods. It is one of the oldest, continuously inhabited cities. Varanasi is believed to be older than Athens, Babylon, Thebes, and even Jerusalem. The city is equally opulent when it comes to its culture which is seen in the form of art and craft, music, dance, and literature.
The Varanasi Ghats
As the Subah-e-Banaras events fade to an end on the Assi Ghat, boats crammed with tourists cruise along the illuminated waters of the Ganga. Often resonating with holy chants throughout the day, the 80-odd ghats of Varanasi are always buzzing with activity. Local children run around in happy groups playing cricket matches or selling souvenirs, while babas with ash smeared across their foreheads, beg for alms. Small stalls flank the ghats, offering hot refreshments.
These world-renowned stone slabs beautifully represent the Hindu concepts of divinity and mystical elements. These are mostly used for religious ceremonies, bathing, and tourism. At the Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghats, where bodies are cremated, men cut logs for funeral pyres.
Here, families mourn for their deceased, while priests pray to the gods for the soul to attain salvation. The water is sprinkled orange by marigold garlands, and the burning flames of the pyres. The ashes are poured into the waters, in a tradition spanning back centuries, but tainting its purity with water pollution.
Temples of Varanasi
As you traverse the narrow, winding lanes of the old city, with the scent of incense and smoke lingering in the air, you’ll come across a temple in almost every lane. Varanasi is often referred to as the City of Temples, as its landscape is dotted with close to 23,000 temples. The 24 x 7 fire at the Manikarnika Ghat rages on, to complete the final rites of corpses swaddled in white, red, or gold.
Nearby, the Ratneshwar Mahadev Mandir, popularly known as the Leaning Temple of Varanasi, is the subject of many awestruck photographers. Built in the classical architectural style of temples in north India, it features an elaborately detailed nagara shikhara. The temple leans at an angle of nearly 9-degrees, which is why its garbha griha or sanctum remains submerged in non-summer months.
Varanasi is also home to the holiest of the twelve Jyotirlingas, or Shiva Temples in India, the Kashi Vishwanath Temple. Throughout the course of history, the temple has been destroyed and reconstructed several times. Clad in saffron robes, thousands of pilgrims visit Varanasi every year, to visit Kashi Vishwanath. The temple complex is riddled with several smaller shrines, while the main temple sits at its center. The temple, along with the city, comes to life on several auspicious occasions, including the Maha Shivratri festivities in February.
Varanasi’s Intangible Heritage
Varanasi’s bazaars are always teeming with a vibrant display of Banarasi Sarees, carpets, and shawls. These glisten with the intricate gold and silver weaves of traditional zari embroidery. Melodious tunes of classical Indian music add a lively charm to the place. People flock to shops to savor the sweet flavors of the Banarasi paan.
Varanasi’s heart and soul lie in its rich culture that speaks volumes about beautiful literature, soulful music tracing back to the Pauranic days, and vibrant handicrafts. Perfumes, brass and copper accessories, bangles, and others made it an important center for trade. Prominent writers, poets, philosophers, and musicians including Tulsidas, produced some of their best work here.
During festivals, the city comes alive with lights, colors, and throngs of people. Every year a five-day festival, the Ganga Mahotsav is observed across all the ghats, to celebrate the River Ganga. It honors the nurturing Ganga and the spiritual, traditional, and cultural vibrancy of Varanasi. On the last day of the Ganga Mahotsav, thousands of pilgrims float lighted oil lamps into the river. This tradition is meant to welcome the Gods who descend to earth to bathe in the Ganga’s holy waters. As the day draws to a close, the locals wrap up their chess or card games, and young artists sharpening their sketching skills on the ghats, return home. At dusk, the Dashashwamedh Ghat comes to life, with men, women, and children gathering to celebrate the Ganga. Hundreds of diyas on brass lamps are set ablaze, and hymns resonate all across.
The crumbling facades of the buildings, the stray leaves floating in the river, and the ghats are illuminated by warm, yellow light. The city of Varanasi is a brilliant example of an eternal human settlement, where both life and death are celebrated with equal vigor. The city finally rests at night, only to come alive with colors, people, music, and ceremonies, in a few hours.
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Hi, I’m Deeksha Kamath…
Hi, I’m Deeksha Kamath…
