The first thing you notice when you come to Gurgaon is the number of skyscrapers. However, one thing is often amiss in the city’s definition is mention about its history and heritage. Look deep and you will find remnants of its antiquity. The Gurgaon (it was renamed ‘Gurugram’ in 2016) of pre-Independence India consisted of European dwellings, churches, Sadar Bazar and the old gaon with its famous temple dedicated to the ‘Goddess of Smallpox’. Go further back and you come across a cantonment of a warrior queen and a counter cavalry unit of the British. Further back in the timeline, you discover a Mughal-era sarai and a historic mosque in a far-flung sector of Gurugram. Lastly, you will come across the fearless Mewatis led by the Khanzada dynasty, who leave their stamp here in the form of a once-glorious mosque and tomb.It may be hard to imagine at first glance, but the millennium city of Gurugram has much to offer heritage and history buffs.
Millennium city over the ages
In the Mahabharata, Gurugram is described as the village of Guru Dronacharya, the guru of Kauravas and Pandavas. This village was given as dakshina by pandavas to guru Dronacharya. There are many sites here that locals believe connect to the era of the Mahabharata – a small temple in Khandsa village, which locals believe marks the spot where Eklavya cut his thumb; Bhima Kund, a pond where Guru Dronacharya is said to have bathed; and a temple dedicated to the guru himself. However, the most famous of them all is the Sheetla Mata Temple, which is dedicated to Kirpai, the wife of Guru Dronacharya, who lived in the village of Keshopur. She committed her life to the service of children suffering from smallpox.
Sheetla (Sitla/Shitla) Mata Mandir
“Despite technological advancement, Gurugram as a city has been deeply attached to its root of the old ancient tradition.”
In late 4th century BCE, the city was absorbed by the Maurya Empire as part of Chandragupta Maurya’s earliest expansions of his kingdom. It was in Akbar’s reign in the second half of the sixteenth century that Gurgaon garnered some notice. Barely had Akbar and his regent, Bairam Khan, taken charge when they were attacked by a powerful Hindu foe, King Hemu, who hailed from Gurgaon pargana, born in the village of Rewari. By this time Hemu had become the dominant force in northern India and defeated the Mughal forces in Kannauj and in the Battle of Delhi in 1556, and came within a hair of wrestling the Mughal Empire in the next battle. During Akbar’s reign, Gurugram fell within the governing regions of Delhi and Agra. Many monuments were constructed during this period.Mughal era monuments such as Sheesh Mahal, Baoli and Jama Masjid built by Faujdar Khan are Dilli Darwaza (Delhi Gate) are notable structures. Badshahpur Qila, this fort dates back to the Mughal era. It served as the residence of one of the wives of the last Mughal Emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar who often came here to meet his begum. Alivardi Khan, the Nawab of Bengal, built this mosque and sarai or rest house back in the 18th century when the Mughal King Mohammad Shah II was ruling Delhi. What makes this mosque stand out from other places of worship is that the mosque complex included a rest house as well as a well. The mosque and the sarai were built for travelers to rest for a while when passing through that route.
According to Veena Talwar Oldenburg, author of Gurgaon: From Mythic Village to Millennium City (2018), this was a small, brick pavilion with classic Mughal arches where the emperor’s entourage used to stop for refreshment en route to Amber. Unfortunately, this piao, over 500 years old, was demolished to make way for the Guru Dronacharya Metro Station in 2009. How ironic! Since Gurgaon lay on the important route from Delhi to Ajmer, sarais, or rest houses, were constructed for the convenience of travellers. A remnant of that time still exists in the form of the Sarai and Mosque of Nawab Ali Vardi Khan, which was constructed in the 18th century during the reign of Mughal emperor Muhammad Shah. As the Mughal empire started to decline, the place was torn between contending powers.
As the Mughal empire started to decline, the place was torn between late Mughals & Marathas. By 1803 most of it came under British rule through the treaty of Surji Arjungaon with Gwalior State. It became a part of the district, which was divided into units called Parganas. These units were given to petty chiefs for the military service rendered by them.During the Mughal and initially during the British colonial era, Gurguram was just a small village in Jharsa pargana of Delhi subah. Report of a Tour in Eastern Rajputana in 1882–83 (published in 1885) by Alexander Cunningham, the then Director-General of Archaeological Survey of India, he mentions a stone pillar at Gurugram of a local feudal lord “Durga Naga” with a 3-line inscription “Samvat 729 or 928, Vaisakh badi 4, Durgga Naga lokatari bhuta” dating back to 672 AD or 871 AD. Aliwardi mosque” in Gurugram, “Badshahpur baoli” and ”Bhondsi” (16th to 17th century) were built during mughal and British era. The “Church of the Epiphany” and “Kaman Serai” (Corrupted form of the “Command Serai” or “Officer’s Mess”) was built by the Britishers in 1925 inside the civil lines. It is interesting to again see the contribution of the People of Gurugram (earlier Gurgaon) in the British military during World War I and the changing strategy of the British after that. This policy of ignoring Gurgaon district was modified after World War I, in which people of the district contributed substantially with manpower and money.
The preservation of heritage and historical monuments was probably never Haryana’s priority. Haryana till date has no scientific or planned initiative to revive the lost heritage and preserve the available heritage to develop tourism opportunities.One of the many souvenirs of Gurugram’s forgotten history, the ‘sarai’ served as a resting place for travellers. The structure now is a dilapidated piece that has been mostly overlooked, and has been heavily encroached upon from all sides. Badshahpur village once had a fort built on 17 acres that has been lost to massive encroachments. All that exists today is a crumbled wall and a decrepit bastion. However, a slice of history remains in the form of a step-well. However, decades of neglect have damaged the building, which is now in disrepair. One of the walls has even slanted slightly, and some pillars have developed fractures. According to locals, if the wall is not provided external support, the entire building may collapse. Despite its strategic position, tourism in Gurugram sadly is all about new age marvels. No monument has properly been converted into a tourist spot or promoted as one, leading to poor visitors’ experience.
“Monuments are for the living, not the dead. Preserve them, love them and pass it on to generations to understand their importance.”
Ironically, the city may be just a few kilometres from Delhi (the hub of historical monuments of the country), it has failed to preserve, promote and value its own history and monuments. There is a need to look beyond the sheen of corporate towers and high-end neighbourhoods in Gurgaon so that what remains of the city’s glorious past is preserved. Collectively, the historic towns and remains around Gurugram present a wide range of heritage, ranging from the ancient to the Sultanate, Mughal, Rajput and colonial periods. The protection, thematic organisation and promotion of this cultural heritage could contribute significantly to heritage tourism in the city, besides boosting the local economy by creating new employment opportunities for them.
Bibliography
- https://m-tribuneindia-com.cdn.ampproject.org/v/s/m.tribuneindia.com/news/archive/haryanatribune/gurugram-s-forgotten-past-774745?amp_js_v=a6&_gsa=1&usqp=mq331AQKKAFQArABIIACAw%3D%3D#aoh=16304018827762&referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com&_tf=From%20%251%24s&share=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.tribuneindia.com%2Fnews%2Farchive%2Fharyanatribune%2f Gurugram-s-forgotten-past-774745
- https://www.britannica.com/place/Gurgaon
- https://gurugram.gov.in/
- ANCIENT INDIA-A BULLETIN OF ARCHAEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF INDIA
Veena Talwar Oldenburg, : From Mythic Village to Millennium City
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Hi, I’m Vishakha Chaudhary …
Hi, I’m Vishakha Chaudhary …
